Battery Vehicle Society

I think the photo on ebay may be the actual motor, because it has the Ford drive yoke ftted, which the basic motor would not.
I think I paid about £1600 for my motor six years ago including shipping from USA and import duty.
Peter

Thanks Peter. What I meant, though, was a photo of the actual motor that the seller owns as opposed to one that is copied from a website.

At the bottom of the ad the seller links to a Google search result for EVsource.com's website selling the Transwarp. That's the image the seller is using not the, possibly dusty and chucked in the corner, motor that is advertised.

I have requested a photo of the actual motor but not heard back yet.


Also there is the possiblity that the motor and shaft will be too long to fit. I only have 17" of space between the bellhousing and the other side of the engine bay. A standard Warp9 has a shorter main shaft that is plain with a keyway, the Transwarp has a longer splined shaft that is a loose slip fit on the Ford yoke. The yoke is supported on a plain bearing in the extension housing and Netgain don't recommend running it without the housing.

Even if I removed the housing and the yoke I would still have a long splined shaft to remachine as the female splines in the yoke would not be a snug enough fit to support a flywheel adaptor without a further bearing.

There is a lot to consider before I increase my bid further.

I did not realise that the Ford yoke was a production option, I thought it was a modification that the owner had done. Whatever, I think it would be an easy option to get a machine shop to alter the shaft to suit, bearing in mind that whatever motor you get, you will have to have a part made to connect the motor to the drive.
If the motor will physically fit, don't miss the chance.
Peter

I managed to phone the chap and he is in the middle of nowhere relative to me. I will have to figure out the cost of getting it back and also if I can afford the bidding in the first place.

I didn't get the TranswarP9.

I decided in the end that I needed to have a realistic cap on the spend and it went over so I let it go.

For the money it went for I could buy a good secondhand fork truck motor and have it rebuilt to do what I want and still have change.

When you phoned the seller, did he talk about the project he bought the motor for? If he had a GTM chassis/body, a warp9 and a lynch motor to play with, the final product sounds very interesting!

I did try probing to find out what the motor had been used for but he was only saying that it went in a car, they ran it in situ and then changed it for another motor.

He didn't seem over interested in discussing much more then that but did say that he was going to loose a lot of money on it and didn't want to pay fees so no PayPal but he could take my card details and make a 'safer' payment that way.

He said he couldn't provide photos of the actual motor either as it was elsewhere.

I picked up a really big motor for the MR2. Well, I just got it because it was £100 and 12" diameter and working.
It is an old 72v milk float motor, a Morrisons MD5



It runs like this.










There are a couple of cracks through two of the comm end mounting bolt holes but I don't think they will be a problem unless I need to advance the brushes.


I really like the art Deco look of the drive end.


I have started cleaning and painting, just red oxide for now until I can decide on a colour.


This is how it fits on the gearbox using a wooden mock up.


CV joint clearance is an issue but I am trying to solve that.


It is a tight fit in the engine bay too.



So I need to have a very short adaptor that will look like this.





What I will do is to use a larger shaft bearing and incorporate the coupler inside the bearing.


However, after all this preperation I have no idea if the motor is even going to be suitable.

It has six cables like this.


I have tested like this.
Test 1: Connect F to battery positive, E to A, and B to battery negative. Note direction of rotation.

Test 2: Connect F to battery positive, E to J, and H to battery negative. Note direction of rotation.

Results:
Test 1: Clockwise seen from comm end, 965rpm.

Test 2: Clockwise seen from comm end, 925rpm.

Any thoughts on how best to connect the motor or what else I need to test or measure?

You really shouldnt be left alone in a workshop leave you for 5 mins and out pops another creation

You have lots of options connections wise, have a look here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Serie ... mpound.png
A=Series Wound: the field coils are connected in series with the armature coil. Powerful and efficient at high speed, series wound motors generate the most torque for a given current. Speed varies wildly with load, and can run away under no-load conditions.
B=Shunt Wound: the field coils are connected in parallel with the armature coil. Shunt wound motors generate the least torque for a given current, but speed varies very little with load. Will not run away under no-load, but may if the field windings fail.
C=Compound Wound: a combination of series and shunt wound. This is an attempt to make a motor that will not run away under no load or if the field fails, yet is as efficient and powerful as a series wound motor.

Of course you could go the whole hog and seperately excite the feild windings ???

The connections do really rely on what type of controller you are thinking of using

ChrisB

I am pretty sure the motor is for series wound use. The wiring diagram in a PDF of the orginal type of milk float shows it with one pair of fields in series with the armature and directly connected to the controller and the other pair of fields connected via tapped resisters for speed control.

Either sets of fields in series with the armature will run the motor and the cables to the fields are big 35sqmm so I expect the windings are likewise few turns of heavy gauge wire.

If it was shunt or compound shunt then surely one or both of the fields would have a many more turns of finer gauge of wire as it wouldn't need to carry the current to the armature.

The controller will be a cheap one! It depends on what I can get lucky with or I may build a Paul and Sabrina kit.

I am trusting that the right one will come along at a price I can afford when I need it. {Fingers crossed, in credit with good deeds, wood touched, children sacrificed to a deity, monopoly money offered to ancestors}