Removal of Control unit
Conventions
Facing the front of the Vehicle looking towards the back , front is nearest you / the front of the vehicle, rear is towards the back of the vehicle , left is your left not the Vehicle left hand side.
Tools
Sockets 10mm, 13mm Long extension about 30cm
10mm Ring /open end spanner
Torx drivers
Large screvdriver and a small electrical screwdriver
Long nose pliers
Engine Hoist or block of wood slightly larger than a Brick!
Open Bonnet.
Remove the Fuse and Link from the top battery , (LH Front of Battery pack)
Remove one other Fuse or link from the Rear or Middle battery Pack.
Disconnect the 12 v Battery and remove from the vehicle, there is a 13mm bolt to the lh side of the battery with a clamping plate. (often previously left off)
Undo the top plate of the Control unit using a large screwdriver or appropriate Torx driver. Prise off cover (rubber seal sticks) place to one side.
There are three pairs of large cables, one cable (twoo terminals)to the motor field windings, one mains cable (3 connections) and one cable to the 12v battery.(two connections) Mark the three pairs of cables counting left to right 1 to 6. (If you have number or letter stamps use these)
Using a 13mm socket remove all 6 of the nuts, place in the upturned lid to one side
Remove all the Torx screws from the other cables, and place all the screws in the lid.
Lift out the cables and hold back away from the Controller using a piece of string on the three pairs, This merely makes lifting the unit out easier.
Lift up the black plastic fuse and relay box on the RH side of the controller, it simply slides in the ribs on the controller side, place to one side (tie up with string if it wont stay put.
Remove the main computer cable, by lifting the metal clip then lifting the plug at the rear then gently pulling back to clear the clip at the front. The cable is not excessively long and you may need to strain it a little to get clear of the plug pins and the catch.
Using a 13mm socket and long extension, undo the three bolts holding the controller down. One front left (Under the heater) one back left hand side, and one front righthand side (under the hoses)
The next stage will cause some coolant fluid to be spilled, so don’t do this on the best garage carpet.
The Controller has two coolant pipes one LH side rear one RH side rear.
The metal clip has to have both tabs spread apart then the pipe pulled upwards . This may be quite tight give a good pull. Because of the way the metal clips are located you cant remove them. If you can remove the clip its probably beenn put on the wrong side of the socket.
The controller is now fully disconnected. Lift it from the LH side and allow most of the coolant to drain out.
Lift the controller out of the vehicle and place away from your working area. Two people may make this easier, be careful of the Radiator when lifting/ removing.
Next Stage to follow as this is quite a lot for one comment.
Grumpy-b
Removal of controller, Top Batt, and temp sender change
Battery removal after controller removed
Removing or Moving the Top front battery after the removal of the controller.
Using a 10mm socket, remove the nuts holding the Watering connectors, and the heater coolant tank. Also remove the three nuts holding the plastic cable support. One on the top and two on the righthand side of the battery box. Put these nuts aside in the controller lid.
Towards the lh side of the plastic support is a recessed part with another 10mm nut behind the cables, release the cables as required. Loosen but do not remove this nut. The plastic is slotted and will lift clear.
Lift the cable support clear and drop down to the front of the battery box.
The battery has four tubes on the front rh side. Mark these on the pipes and on the battery case. The LH pair will pull down you may need the help of the large screwdriver to get them started. One will fall off as it is the drain.
Using the long nose pliers pull out the metal clips on the pipe connectors for the coolant , similar to the ones on the controller. Place these clips aside , do not lose them Prise the connectors off the battery .
Remove the heater reservoir and tie to one side.
Using a Torx driver disconnect the cables from the fuse blocks. The screws may be very tight. Ensure you have the largest size of driver that will fit in the screw.
The cables have a small tie into the battery case beside the connector, prise this apart by sliding a small flat blade screwdriver from the top onto the lugs and levering outwards. Pull out the cables.
The Temperature sensor connection is on the front to the right of the battery case near the pipes. Press the loop of the cable clip into the socket and pull the connector down. The wire clip holds the connector and must be pushed hard to release it.
The battery is held in place by three bolts. one on the right side near the front, one on the lefthand side near the front and one on the rear on the lefthand side just in front of the Brake servo.
Undo these using a 13mm socket with a long enough extension to clear the battery case. Remove the bolts and set aside.
The battery can now be removed in which case you really need an engine hoist or some strong companions, or you can move the battery to one side and split the case.
In either case you first have to release the watering tubes .
The battery is located on lugs and needs to be lifted to clear these. Stand to the Left hand side (Across drivers side wing) lift battery and move forward over the cables just enough to get your arm behind the battery case. The pipes are held in simple slots/ clips on the back of the case and can simply be pulled free.
If removing by engine hoist use the metal mounting lugs to attaché the lifting hooks, with only three points the battery will tend to twist as you lift it clear, hold on tight and use two people one to hold the battery case one to lift and move the engine hoist. Ensure the bonnet is high enough for the complete lift or ensure chains etc are short.
If working in the engine bay, struggle with the battery until it is at an angle nearest the front on the left hand side and tilt it so the top half of the case can be removed. Insert the brick shaped piece of wood underneath it to the rear to support the case.
Take a break and consume Tea/ Coffee as appropriate.
Third and final part to follow
Grumpy-B
Removing or Moving the Top front battery after the removal of the controller.
Using a 10mm socket, remove the nuts holding the Watering connectors, and the heater coolant tank. Also remove the three nuts holding the plastic cable support. One on the top and two on the righthand side of the battery box. Put these nuts aside in the controller lid.
Towards the lh side of the plastic support is a recessed part with another 10mm nut behind the cables, release the cables as required. Loosen but do not remove this nut. The plastic is slotted and will lift clear.
Lift the cable support clear and drop down to the front of the battery box.
The battery has four tubes on the front rh side. Mark these on the pipes and on the battery case. The LH pair will pull down you may need the help of the large screwdriver to get them started. One will fall off as it is the drain.
Using the long nose pliers pull out the metal clips on the pipe connectors for the coolant , similar to the ones on the controller. Place these clips aside , do not lose them Prise the connectors off the battery .
Remove the heater reservoir and tie to one side.
Using a Torx driver disconnect the cables from the fuse blocks. The screws may be very tight. Ensure you have the largest size of driver that will fit in the screw.
The cables have a small tie into the battery case beside the connector, prise this apart by sliding a small flat blade screwdriver from the top onto the lugs and levering outwards. Pull out the cables.
The Temperature sensor connection is on the front to the right of the battery case near the pipes. Press the loop of the cable clip into the socket and pull the connector down. The wire clip holds the connector and must be pushed hard to release it.
The battery is held in place by three bolts. one on the right side near the front, one on the lefthand side near the front and one on the rear on the lefthand side just in front of the Brake servo.
Undo these using a 13mm socket with a long enough extension to clear the battery case. Remove the bolts and set aside.
The battery can now be removed in which case you really need an engine hoist or some strong companions, or you can move the battery to one side and split the case.
In either case you first have to release the watering tubes .
The battery is located on lugs and needs to be lifted to clear these. Stand to the Left hand side (Across drivers side wing) lift battery and move forward over the cables just enough to get your arm behind the battery case. The pipes are held in simple slots/ clips on the back of the case and can simply be pulled free.
If removing by engine hoist use the metal mounting lugs to attaché the lifting hooks, with only three points the battery will tend to twist as you lift it clear, hold on tight and use two people one to hold the battery case one to lift and move the engine hoist. Ensure the bonnet is high enough for the complete lift or ensure chains etc are short.
If working in the engine bay, struggle with the battery until it is at an angle nearest the front on the left hand side and tilt it so the top half of the case can be removed. Insert the brick shaped piece of wood underneath it to the rear to support the case.
Take a break and consume Tea/ Coffee as appropriate.
Third and final part to follow
Grumpy-B
Last part replacment of Temp sender.
Changing the Temperature sender
Splitting the case requires the removal of the clips holding the case . Insert the small screwdriver in the top edge and twist, holding the other hand to catch the clip. You may be able to flip them off with your finger. They do travela good distance if let to flip off freely.
With all the clips removed slip the cover off the battery.
Remove the coolant pipes and set aside (large four pronged tubes)
Remove the plastic cover, easing the small coolant tubes through.
The Temp Sensor is located on the righthand side of the front right battery.
Using a 13mm socket disconnect the straps connecting the terminals , the righthand one also needs disconnecting from the adjacent battery and removing. Using a torx driver undo and remove the two screws holding the righthand fuse block to the battery case. Lift off the assembly, place aside with all nuts and screws.
Remove the linking tubes and note their positions (or take of one end and leave the other on the adjacent battery. The Cell can now be lifted out.
The cell may be stuck on a silicon seating if so prise apart gently with the large screwdriver. Lift out if you cant hold it bolt the link bars on and use these as handles. As you lift the sensor is visible tilt the battery to one side so the sensor is accessible. Gently prise the metal clip out using the electrical screwdriver. the sensor just pulls out. Remove the sensor connector from the case by twisting until the luggs line up and it falls out . Remove the sensor completely.
Now reverse the procedure to re-install.
Points to watch.
Check the coolant and top up pipes are firmly in place before replacing the top casing.
Before the battery is finally located ensure the watering tubes are clipped on the case and the filler connector is in place. The pipes are not overly long.
When installing the lefthand rear controller mounting bolt remember the Negative cable lug.
Ensure the coolant pipe clips are in place and the pipes firmly clipped. Try and pull them off. If they come off , push harder
Ensure the coolant is replaced.
Connect 12v battery before replacing the traction fuses and links, don’t forget the rear one you removed earlier.
Good Luck sorry no pics but I cant post them and I dont have enough to make it worth while Please feel free to edit and alter / add to as you see fit.
Grumpy-b
Changing the Temperature sender
Splitting the case requires the removal of the clips holding the case . Insert the small screwdriver in the top edge and twist, holding the other hand to catch the clip. You may be able to flip them off with your finger. They do travela good distance if let to flip off freely.
With all the clips removed slip the cover off the battery.
Remove the coolant pipes and set aside (large four pronged tubes)
Remove the plastic cover, easing the small coolant tubes through.
The Temp Sensor is located on the righthand side of the front right battery.
Using a 13mm socket disconnect the straps connecting the terminals , the righthand one also needs disconnecting from the adjacent battery and removing. Using a torx driver undo and remove the two screws holding the righthand fuse block to the battery case. Lift off the assembly, place aside with all nuts and screws.
Remove the linking tubes and note their positions (or take of one end and leave the other on the adjacent battery. The Cell can now be lifted out.
The cell may be stuck on a silicon seating if so prise apart gently with the large screwdriver. Lift out if you cant hold it bolt the link bars on and use these as handles. As you lift the sensor is visible tilt the battery to one side so the sensor is accessible. Gently prise the metal clip out using the electrical screwdriver. the sensor just pulls out. Remove the sensor connector from the case by twisting until the luggs line up and it falls out . Remove the sensor completely.
Now reverse the procedure to re-install.
Points to watch.
Check the coolant and top up pipes are firmly in place before replacing the top casing.
Before the battery is finally located ensure the watering tubes are clipped on the case and the filler connector is in place. The pipes are not overly long.
When installing the lefthand rear controller mounting bolt remember the Negative cable lug.
Ensure the coolant pipe clips are in place and the pipes firmly clipped. Try and pull them off. If they come off , push harder
Ensure the coolant is replaced.
Connect 12v battery before replacing the traction fuses and links, don’t forget the rear one you removed earlier.
Good Luck sorry no pics but I cant post them and I dont have enough to make it worth while Please feel free to edit and alter / add to as you see fit.
Grumpy-b
Lovely write up Grumps, did you take any pics that you could insert into the posts ?? (dont ask for much do I 
)
And best of all it looks like you hooked it all out in 3 mins flat, first post 10.09, final post 10.12
Cracking one, I'll link it to Robs FAQ I think
ChrisB
)
And best of all it looks like you hooked it all out in 3 mins flat, first post 10.09, final post 10.12
Cracking one, I'll link it to Robs FAQ I think
ChrisB
I reject reality and substitute my own !!!!!!
Sorry I dont have Pics, I did this last one in the evening, with poor light, but I could always take some of the various parts including the inside of the Top battery . I just dont have a hosting location to then pump them into the forum from.
If I have pics then I am happy to re-do the whole thing with them inserted , I still have the original document, I could also do a PDF version.
Perhaps the time has come for the site somewhere to have a location for .pdf documents as a reference source.
I split this up as once I had written it, I appreciated how long the whole thing was. Hence the three part split.
Regards
Grumpy-b
If I have pics then I am happy to re-do the whole thing with them inserted , I still have the original document, I could also do a PDF version.
Perhaps the time has come for the site somewhere to have a location for .pdf documents as a reference source.
I split this up as once I had written it, I appreciated how long the whole thing was. Hence the three part split.
Regards
Grumpy-b
No worries its great as is.
An area to host such documents for members has been in the offing for a while I think. I'll mention this to the team and see what can be done, this sort of thing needs to be in the "members only section" I feel to give added value
Of course we dont currently have a "members only section"
ChrisB
An area to host such documents for members has been in the offing for a while I think. I'll mention this to the team and see what can be done, this sort of thing needs to be in the "members only section" I feel to give added value
Of course we dont currently have a "members only section"
ChrisB
I reject reality and substitute my own !!!!!!
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