Urgent berlingo help needed

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Teslas fag packet
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Postby Teslas fag packet » Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:38 pm

Oi you lot, is the coolant anything special in't berlingos or is it just ordinary glycol as used in the ICE version.

I have looked in the manual and it just quotes a Citroen number

What do you use :?:

Ta
Tes
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timpootle
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Postby timpootle » Tue Jan 29, 2008 1:21 pm

What is the Citroen number you have?

I only have the diesel handbook. We can compare.
Tim Crumpton

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Postby Teslas fag packet » Tue Jan 29, 2008 2:25 pm

That would be useful ta Tim :)

all i have is the one from http://www.rmsconsult.co.uk/berlingo/manuals.htm

I'm at work ATM and we don't have the BW to download the manual

Will have a look when i get home
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timpootle
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Postby timpootle » Tue Jan 29, 2008 3:11 pm

OK, I've checked them both and they are different.

Diesel handbook reads:
Coolant specified by CITROEN
(to be replaced every 120,000 km, equating to 75,000 miles for petrol or 80,000 miles for diesel, or every five years whichever is the sooner).
RP ref. 9979 16
or RP ref. 9979 46 : 2L
RP ref. 9979 17
or RP ref. 9979 47 : 5L

Whereas the Electrique handbook reads:
Coolant specified by CITROEN
to be replaced every five years
Ref. 9979 13 :
Ref. 9979 43 : 1L


I just checked on the car, too, but there are no helpful stickers.

HTH
Tim Crumpton

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Postby Teslas fag packet » Tue Jan 29, 2008 4:12 pm

Tim, thank you for that you didn't have to do all the leg work, makes you wonder what the difference is, I suppose it's only a concern if it rot's the plastic water jackets on the batteries :roll:
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ChrisB
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Postby ChrisB » Tue Jan 29, 2008 6:40 pm

I've been concerned about this for sometime but have in the end just bunged the normal blue antifreeze in watered down to a 50/50 mix.

The orginal is neat @ 100%. EVan didnt seem to think theres a problem using the normal stuff. I would say that make sure you flush the whole system out and dont mix them, flushing takes blooming ages and I used a low preasure hose pipe and blocked off different parts of the system to make sure you get all the stuff out, then you have the same problem getting the water out so you can add the anti-freeze :roll:

Be careful when flushing or blowing the water out that you dont blow any pipes off the batteries inside the crates , do it all at very very low preasures or you could and then you'll get leaks and have to drop a crate out.

I've been running normal blue anti-freeze now for nearly a year and so far no probs (famose last words :oops: )

ChrisB
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Teslas fag packet
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Postby Teslas fag packet » Tue Jan 29, 2008 8:35 pm

Great thanks Tim and Chris,

Mi mate the bloke who was looking for a berlingo right at the beginning of this chain, has finally got one.

From that bloke on ebay, that really is the last one now, it's a runner but there was NO coolant in the controller side of the rad. and being a conscientious type he wanted to know what the best thing to do was.

Also with my controller being out i could do with knowing too

Blue curacao it is then :)
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ChrisB
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Postby ChrisB » Tue Jan 29, 2008 10:27 pm

No probs , just make sure you flush the system :wink:

Mixing antifreeze isnt good, I've seen some turn to like a jelly when mixed :shock:

If you've still got the battery side full of geniune I'd be tempted to drian off some of that and mix it down with some water and add it back in to the whole system and thus the controller side as well. Rather than draining the whole system and flushing it.

The controller side is fairly important to have some sort of anti-corriosion stuff in it due to the large amount of ally in the controller

ChrisB
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Teslas fag packet
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Postby Teslas fag packet » Thu Jan 31, 2008 9:58 pm

Well my little forum monkeys, she's a runner

:) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)

When i inspected the brushes i found some oily residue i was convinced this was graphite mixed with something, and i was concerned it was oil maybe the oil seal to the transmission was bust.

Well i dissolved the substance in a glass of water and there was no oil floating on top, and looking at the seal on the inspection plate it was safe to say it was water mixed with graphite power.

so i removed all the brushes and blew out all the powder with cleaner, and carefully cleaned out the deposits. Replaced brushes timed it up and tightened the bolts

When refitting the inspection plate i used RTV compound, as there was a crack were someone had over tightened the bolts, it is now a good seal on the cover.

Well with this done i could install my controller, i had repaired it over the last couple of days.

The main IGBT had failed (killed by a flashover in the motor coursed by water mixed with graphite as above Nice one Chris B) killing a bidirectional transorb a P channel FET (obsolete) replaced with one i did a data sheet compare on.

There were also a number of parts i changed as a matter of course

The N channel FET in the driver stage
All of the electrolytic capacitor i came across
3.9R fuseable resistors

All the "popcorn" came to about £10
The E caps i had in stock
The IGBT was $250 USD

Van = £1762.50

Thanks all for all your input, Now starts the learning curve

Thanks
Tes
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MalcolmB
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Postby MalcolmB » Fri Feb 01, 2008 8:36 am

Well done Tes. I can hear you grinning all the way up here :)

What's RTV by the way? Reet Tacky Velcro?


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