Well I finally have some newer batteries. A full set of 2002/03 all measuring around 6.3v after a very limited charge, from virtually flat.
In addition I have one complete 6 pack of 2001 all partially charged at over 6v and few cells that have got over 6.6v when put into my top engine bay set and charged up.
So this week end may see them going into my Blingo at last.
As a tip I have found that using a hand operated pallet truck is brilliant, but of course you need a decent floor to move it on. But the great thing is the stable up and down movement. Owing to the limited raising you have to block the battery pack up and partially lower it onto some bricks, then take off the blocks and lower it down in stages, actually quite easy and safe for one person.
I now have two berlingos that I will be breaking, probably concentrate on one of them a really good White bodied s reg, as the other is slightly later and highly modified back body. I am considering doing a multispace, so the doner vehicle will be useful, and I dont want the bodyshell.
I will update how it goes with the final swap out.
Jeremy
Berlingo in need of some Bats
Nice one Jeremy
Glad you've found some, Have you got an EVlite to get the batts all balanced up and topped up with water ??
Yes I looked at the pallet truck option but due to lack of space and very flat area I ended up with a decent trolly jack and two of us easing the packs out, to be honest the worst one was the big center one but even that one came out fairly easily.
Top tip make sure you grease the bolts that hold the packs in as they can become a bugger to remove if the become rusted in
ChrisB
Glad you've found some, Have you got an EVlite to get the batts all balanced up and topped up with water ??
Yes I looked at the pallet truck option but due to lack of space and very flat area I ended up with a decent trolly jack and two of us easing the packs out, to be honest the worst one was the big center one but even that one came out fairly easily.
Top tip make sure you grease the bolts that hold the packs in as they can become a bugger to remove if the become rusted in
ChrisB
I reject reality and substitute my own !!!!!!
Evlite on the way, so once they are in I can get them fed and watered properly.
It was surprising how relatively easily most of the bolts came out. Only one of the Tork bolts was seriously tight. Still when I get my set out of my recipient van they will probably be a real pain. Sods law will out. All will go back in with Copper ease.
Biggest annoyance on the last set I took out was one of the cable clamp bolts on the Top engine bay set would not undo at the fuse block, totally stripped the tork bolt head. Still I do have a spare to swap out.
I am considering putting a set of water proof sockets on each battery case, and connecting to each cattery connection so I can individually check battery voltages. Rapid Electronics (who are close to us) do have some very reasonably priced water resilient sockets. I will then butcher a simple digital voltmeter to give me a plug in push button check of each cell and overall battery set voltages. Not too costly and from past experience being able to problem solve such issues would have been very beneficial.
Regards
Jeremy
It was surprising how relatively easily most of the bolts came out. Only one of the Tork bolts was seriously tight. Still when I get my set out of my recipient van they will probably be a real pain. Sods law will out. All will go back in with Copper ease.
Biggest annoyance on the last set I took out was one of the cable clamp bolts on the Top engine bay set would not undo at the fuse block, totally stripped the tork bolt head. Still I do have a spare to swap out.
I am considering putting a set of water proof sockets on each battery case, and connecting to each cattery connection so I can individually check battery voltages. Rapid Electronics (who are close to us) do have some very reasonably priced water resilient sockets. I will then butcher a simple digital voltmeter to give me a plug in push button check of each cell and overall battery set voltages. Not too costly and from past experience being able to problem solve such issues would have been very beneficial.
Regards
Jeremy
At last I can do more than 4 miles . My 02/01 set have now been fed and watered and have done 20 miles and still sit at about 170v at rest. Just starting to dip below 160 when driving. So all is looking good for some use of the Blingo other than pushing it home/ taking the fuse out every few hundred yards.
The energy meter still doesnt read fully charged even after its maint charge and a follow up charge. I have seen comments that this will change over time.
The grin has at last arrived.
Grumpy-b
The energy meter still doesnt read fully charged even after its maint charge and a follow up charge. I have seen comments that this will change over time.
The grin has at last arrived.
Grumpy-b
- Flying John
- Site Staff
- Posts: 335
- Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2006 5:24 pm
- Location: Kent
It may be that the simpler way is to run a small wire from each fuse/link on each battery pack via a small inline fuselink or high value (megohms) resistor.
These wire (2 per pack) could be run to the dashboard and a rotary double pole switch and a meter to measure each pack whenever you like.
John
These wire (2 per pack) could be run to the dashboard and a rotary double pole switch and a meter to measure each pack whenever you like.
John
Last edited by Flying John on Sat Mar 15, 2008 9:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
owing to the lack of space on the cases to actually insert a socket, I have just wired the junctions to a small box on a flying lead, each box fixed so I can get to it. Terminated inside with a choc bloc. I can simply measure the voltages. Not complex but works fine.
Its good to know that after a good drive all batts are reading about 6.4+v all virtually the same.
Grumpy-b
Its good to know that after a good drive all batts are reading about 6.4+v all virtually the same.
Grumpy-b
- Flying John
- Site Staff
- Posts: 335
- Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2006 5:24 pm
- Location: Kent
My Power meter does not seem to want to get much above 60% but the evlite says 100 % even after a maint charge and a few subsequent re-charges.
I seem to run out of usable power after about 25 miles, not to the amber light stage but loaded batt voltage is down to 150.
At rest and a few minutes after driving all cells measure 6.3+v except one that is nearer 6.2V
This morning after charging all were at a good 7v + including this batt. However after 8 miles (incluing some long hills) all were at 6.4 + except this one cell that was 6.3V.
Is this reasonable difference to be expected? My gut feeling is its probably not performing so good under load, so I plan to wire my meter into this cell through my connetion block, so I can see what its doing under load. Could be a swap out of the cell just to get a better balance.
Grumpy-b
I seem to run out of usable power after about 25 miles, not to the amber light stage but loaded batt voltage is down to 150.
At rest and a few minutes after driving all cells measure 6.3+v except one that is nearer 6.2V
This morning after charging all were at a good 7v + including this batt. However after 8 miles (incluing some long hills) all were at 6.4 + except this one cell that was 6.3V.
Is this reasonable difference to be expected? My gut feeling is its probably not performing so good under load, so I plan to wire my meter into this cell through my connetion block, so I can see what its doing under load. Could be a swap out of the cell just to get a better balance.
Grumpy-b
- Flying John
- Site Staff
- Posts: 335
- Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2006 5:24 pm
- Location: Kent
It does sound like one or more cells are giving up under load - or just reduced capacity.
Are you able to bring your wires from the packs into the inside of the van and monitor them while driving. Just be careful tho as you will have full pack volts coming into the cab so my advice would be high value resistors in series at the battery pack ends to limit the available current to less than a milliamp.
John
Are you able to bring your wires from the packs into the inside of the van and monitor them while driving. Just be careful tho as you will have full pack volts coming into the cab so my advice would be high value resistors in series at the battery pack ends to limit the available current to less than a milliamp.
John
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