Motor mount

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Grumpy-b
Posts: 991
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2007 12:06 pm

Motor mount

Postby Grumpy-b » Wed Oct 02, 2013 6:47 pm

I have just seen a repaired Motor mount and feel I should add some caution.
The attached photos, from one of my repairs show a broken mount and after welding.
This worked fine, and reinforced the folded bends, the whole assembly is very close to the underside of the front battery box. The repair I saw today had tried to bolster up the top bend by welding a section of angle onto the top. This now hits the battery box, which the fitter was unaware of and didnt seem to realise it would constantly hit the battery case as the car is drive and the drive assembly moves on its mounts.

This problem so far is on the later vehicles with the fully folded bracket, early ones were a two piece item and as yet I havnt seen a broken bracket. By choice I would weld the bends (After taking off the powder coating) on both the inside and outside of the weld. If any beefing up is done it should be on the underside and must clear all below it.

I will shortly have a couple of spares, which I can do an exchange for un modified/ originals. So if anyone is interested, I can supply one you can take yours off and put the new on on in a couple of hours with a trolley jack and an axle stand, and a bit of personal dexterity and bodily insertion into the engine bay.

When it breaks the whole motor and gearbox drops and the Drivers side driveshaft falls out. If you are lucky its undamaged, if not then its a new driveshaft as well after the input end has been dragged along the ground, what ever happens its loads of grease and oil around the underside of the car.

I will price this next week, including postage, but I will charge a deposit, as I have had exchange parts not returned before for Berlingos. I dont have enough parts to do an outright sale at the moment. But that could change if I get a batch made.

Grumpy-b
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Grumpy-b
Posts: 991
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2007 12:06 pm

Re: Motor mount

Postby Grumpy-b » Thu May 22, 2014 8:12 pm

I would really suggest that any owner of a C1 Evie who has the motor mount with the double band as shown, deal with it before it causes you real problems, I have just repaired another completely broken one, driveshaft out the lot. I have also taken to reccomending that I swap them out for any customers car that comes in. I have two out of three recently changed that have visible cracks staring at one end.
The bend starts on a flat side and finishes in the middle of the plate, the crack seems to start at the middle of the plate where the original press brake seems to have caused a small tear.

Dont leave this, its much more damaging if it breaks. I hold modified plates, welded inside and outside of all the bends, so that owners with no welding kit can just swap the plate over and send the old one back. If anyone is interested give me a PM. I do charge a £50 refundable deposit as well, after a customer never returned a part some time ago.
If you can weld or do have access to welding, then grind off all the powder coating, weld the outside bends first and this burns off the remaining powdercoat in the crease from the press brake. Wire brush this out before you weld the inside bend. I just finish with black smoothrite. It should be a wide weld around the whole of the outside bend, it adds material and relieves the stress caused by the sharpe point of the press brake tool.

To remove, first cut the cable tie that holds the plug from the motor to the inner wing shield,unplug the connector. Under the bonnet remove the Vacuum pump to the drivers side of the battery box. Pull off the connector at the front by depressing the metal wire clip and pulling the plug to the front of the car. remove two of the three screws that hold the pump to the battery box, one screw at the top and one at the rear side. Pull the pump upwards off the lower rubber mount and push the whole thing to the rear. This uncovers the two 12mm bolts on the top motor mount. Using a 19mm spanner and socket undo the front bolt completely and remove it. Then loosen the rear bolt but dont fully remove the nut/ bolt.
Now get under the front of the car, jack it if you have to and use axle stands, you will need a second jack to put under the motor to take its weight. Jack it up so that the weight goes off the remaining top bolt.Now loosen the four 12mm bolts 19mm spanner that holds the end plate. Note the cables at the top of the large opening , dont let the plate fall and damage these. Take the top two bolts out completely then take out the remaining top motor mount bolt. Now take out the lower bolts holding the plate so that it doesnt drop. Draw it to the side of the car so that it passes over the cable. Swap the plate or repair it, and reverse the procedure with the replacement part. I have also taken to replacing the top spring washers with Nylocs, and putting a spring washer on the motor end bolts. I can supply these as well.
After all is back in place make sure the vacuum pump is reconnected, and the connector to the motor cables (Temp and rotation sensors) is retied to the slpash guard. I can also supply cable ties.
Its a simple operation, and will save you a lot of expense rather than wait for it to finally break.

Grumpy-b


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