Convert stud terminals to standard SAE post terminals?

[imprator]

Hi.

I have a deep cycle battery which is fitted with threaded stud terminals. I would like to convert these to the standard SAE post terminals as featured on most car batteries. I would prefer a converter in the form of a post with a threaded insert that will screw directly onto the studs.

I know such products exist, but haven't been able to find any in the UK so far. Does anyone know where I might find such converters in the UK?

Thanks.

P.S.
There is an example of what I am looking for at the following page (look for "Stud to top post conversion connector", about one-third of the way down the page) -
http://www.solarseller.com/battery_post_connectors_conversions_adapters_repair.htm

[Night Train]

Why do you want/need to change the terminal type?
Why not just buy them from that supplier you linked to?

I must say that I haven't come across this type of post adaptor before. I've always just changed the terminal on the cable to suit the battery.

[ChrisB]

Must admit I'd go with "night trains" suggestion and just use the correct sized crimp lugs with holes in to nut and bolt to the threaded studs.

If your concerned about getting hold of a large set of crimpers or crimps then most electrical wholesalers sell the crimps and will generally "hire out" the crimpers for a weekend.

ChrisB

[imprator]

Thanks for the comments.

As I am in the UK I would prefer to buy from a UK supplier, so the US retailer I linked to is not ideal.

As to why I want to do this - I have an AGM battery going spare which happens to be just the right size to fit a standard (internal combustion) vehicle which is due for a new battery. I would prefer to leave the standard post-type battery clamps on the vehicle's cables for future compatibility with standard vehicle batteries, and to provide what I would imagine would be a superior contact (due to larger surface area) between the vehicle cable and the battery - important given the high currents flowing during engine cranking.

Leaving the standard battery clamps on the vehicle will also allow me to re-fit a standard vehicle battery if the AGM battery proves unsuited to the task (although I am pretty sure that it will be OK).

Cheers.

[ChrisB]

Ah right I see now, can you not ....er ...."bodge" it for the time by removing the clamp bolt on the post type connectors and then with a couple of washers maybe, slip the clamp over the stud and tighten it down on it ???

Its not going to be pretty but would prove a point to start with

If it works then look at a slightly better option.

You'll be surprised how small a contact area you actually need for a normal vehicle with a ICE, the starting currents are high but for a very short period of time compared to EV use and thus you can get away with quite small or poor contact areas without any real issues, it might in time cause an issue but not for sometime as long as the connection is nice and tight.

ChrisB

Disclaimer: only carry out the above if you are happy doing it, it is in no way meant to be the "correct" method of connection

[timpootle]

... to provide what I would imagine would be a superior contact (due to larger surface area) between the vehicle cable and the battery - important given the high currents flowing during engine cranking.

I don't believe this to be true. In my experience the clamp type lug is often made of lead, which promptly cracks if tightened too hard. I would much rather use a stud/nut to make the connection and guarantee a tight mating face, which will have a greater effect on area to carry current than pure visible area.

[imprator]

Ah right I see now, can you not ....er ...."bodge" it for the time by removing the clamp bolt on the post type connectors and then with a couple of washers maybe, slip the clamp over the stud and tighten it down on it ???

Its not going to be pretty but would prove a point to start with

If it works then look at a slightly better option.

You'll be surprised how small a contact area you actually need for a normal vehicle with a ICE, the starting currents are high but for a very short period of time compared to EV use and thus you can get away with quite small or poor contact areas without any real issues, it might in time cause an issue but not for sometime as long as the connection is nice and tight.

ChrisB

Disclaimer: only carry out the above if you are happy doing it, it is in no way meant to be the "correct" method of connection

An interesting idea, although the battery's studs might be a little too short, so a bodge might become somewhat more involved. If I could pick up a pair of converter posts for a few pounds that would therefore be my preferred option.

Still, if I can't find any converter posts in the UK...

Cheers.

[timpootle]

If you do use a convertor, remember the positive and negative posts are different sizes.

[imprator]

... to provide what I would imagine would be a superior contact (due to larger surface area) between the vehicle cable and the battery - important given the high currents flowing during engine cranking.

I don't believe this to be true. In my experience the clamp type lug is often made of lead, which promptly cracks if tightened too hard. I would much rather use a stud/nut to make the connection and guarantee a tight mating face, which will have a greater effect on area to carry current than pure visible area.

Thanks for your comment.

More possibilities are opening up!

Cheers.

[Night Train]

How about this?
http://www.electricalcarservices.com/negative-battery-isolator-switch-ecs-rsk592-p-1196.html
Ignore the clamp part and the red screw bit and just use the eyelet shaped part with the barrel to fit the standard clamp.

Here is another type that you could adapt.
http://www.elise-shop.com/battery-isolator-dual-function-elise-exige-340r-p-778.html

For the bigger positive clamp you can wrap a bit of lead or copper sheet around the post.