Plugged in the other evening, no lights, cursing my son for leaving his cricket bat leaning against the circuit breaker 'test' button again I went to turn it on... and it's already on. Check socket; socket's live. Unplug lead from Blingo nothing obviously wrong, replug in Blingo, replug in socket - lights on! Brilliant. Next morning van not charged. Bu**er. Won't charge at all now.
Test fuse. Fine. Take lead apart and test it. Full continuity between neutral 13a pin and springy end pin in the whatever-its-name-is big plug that goes into the van. Ditto Earth, NOT ditto live which has no continuity at all. Remember to check the live from the cable side of the fuse still not fine. 100% resistance.
So I think I've found my problem, which I look on as a good opportunity to pop into an electical shop and get myself a longer flex anyway.
Now after this disarmingly long explanation (I'm Welsh), and thinking about how I'm going to rewire the whatever-its-name-is big plug, I can't work out how to disassemble the point where the wire meets the spring loaded connector bit. As I don't want to break it trying to work it out, does anyone know how one rewires this thing? Or do I resort to ceramic line connectors (there's plenty of room in the plug)?
Any knowledge welcomed.
Thanks!
Evan
Charging lead rewire
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evanmjones
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2008 3:24 pm
- Location: Cardiff, Wales
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evanmjones
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2008 3:24 pm
- Location: Cardiff, Wales
Charging lead replacement
OK, sorted! Thanks for the messages and thanks Tim particularly for the advice on how to post photographs.
FTR, this is how I replaced the wiring at the Berlingo plug end:
The case was opened using an appropriately sized torx-head screwdriver to reveal the interior as shown in Figure 1.
The wires terminated in a second assembly attached by two further torx-head screws identical to the ones used to secure the casing (Arrow “A” shows the right hand screw). Note the strip of tape at the head of the assembly (Arrow “B”).
Gentle removal of the termination assembly revealed the spring-loaded connectors shown in Figure 2.
Turning this assembly over I remove the strip of tape at which arrow “B” was pointing in Figure 1. This revealed a series of small holes. I used the screwdriver to push through the holes and dislodge the spring connector. The connector is shown in Figure 3.
The wire terminated through the arrowed entrance “C” near the base of the terminal and was secured by a fixing-screw (also torx head) at point “D”. A pliers was necessary to secure the base of the terminal while gently unscrewing the fixing-screw.
The new cable was prepared and the seal from the old pushed into place.
The new cable was inserted and tightened into the relevant terminal and the terminal pressed back into position. The same procedure was followed for the other terminals until all three had been replaced. The linked white-wire terminals were undisturbed. By completing one terminal at a time I did not reverse polarity.
Taking care not to crimp any of the wires between the columns of the case fixing screws I closed up, and re-tightened all.
It works! And is even now charging up the van.
FTR, this is how I replaced the wiring at the Berlingo plug end:
The case was opened using an appropriately sized torx-head screwdriver to reveal the interior as shown in Figure 1.
The wires terminated in a second assembly attached by two further torx-head screws identical to the ones used to secure the casing (Arrow “A” shows the right hand screw). Note the strip of tape at the head of the assembly (Arrow “B”).
Gentle removal of the termination assembly revealed the spring-loaded connectors shown in Figure 2.
Turning this assembly over I remove the strip of tape at which arrow “B” was pointing in Figure 1. This revealed a series of small holes. I used the screwdriver to push through the holes and dislodge the spring connector. The connector is shown in Figure 3.
The wire terminated through the arrowed entrance “C” near the base of the terminal and was secured by a fixing-screw (also torx head) at point “D”. A pliers was necessary to secure the base of the terminal while gently unscrewing the fixing-screw.
The new cable was prepared and the seal from the old pushed into place.
The new cable was inserted and tightened into the relevant terminal and the terminal pressed back into position. The same procedure was followed for the other terminals until all three had been replaced. The linked white-wire terminals were undisturbed. By completing one terminal at a time I did not reverse polarity.
Taking care not to crimp any of the wires between the columns of the case fixing screws I closed up, and re-tightened all.
It works! And is even now charging up the van.
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Flying John
- Site Staff
- Posts: 335
- Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2006 5:24 pm
- Location: Kent
cianof wrote:The cable on my lead is Har 1.5mm HO7 Rubber 3 Core Cable. 4.65m
When charging the cable feels warm but not hot. I'm thinking of replacing the cable with a longer cable. Would there be any advantage/disadvantage of using a 2.5mm cable?
In theory you should keep the voltage drop below 1%. So, a 1.5mm^2 cable is OK up to about 8 metres, with a 13A load.
2.5mm is definitely a better idea though - it's mechanically stronger, and you waste less electricity. The drawback is the cost.
A very useful write up. Thanks.
I use 2.5mm on my Extension cable, but there is a lot of difference in so called Arctic cable. Mine is really stiff even in mildly cool weather. The original / main cable is really nice material. Mine also gets slightly warm, even if plugged straight in with no extension. Never a problem though. I only use 16amp plugs for my normal usage, with a 13amp in reserve for the occasional top up at work. Before changing I did see off a couple of 13amp plugs, The worst being the shockproof ones like the perma plug, which just get soft and distort. One even had the plastic covering of the live pin melt and get stuck in the socket. A combination of poor plug, and an MK outside sealed socket with no ventilation.
Grumpy-b
I use 2.5mm on my Extension cable, but there is a lot of difference in so called Arctic cable. Mine is really stiff even in mildly cool weather. The original / main cable is really nice material. Mine also gets slightly warm, even if plugged straight in with no extension. Never a problem though. I only use 16amp plugs for my normal usage, with a 13amp in reserve for the occasional top up at work. Before changing I did see off a couple of 13amp plugs, The worst being the shockproof ones like the perma plug, which just get soft and distort. One even had the plastic covering of the live pin melt and get stuck in the socket. A combination of poor plug, and an MK outside sealed socket with no ventilation.
Grumpy-b
When we were talking about the BVS charging point document back in March (really should get that going again), Antoni Offert was of the opinion that we should recommend SY armoured cable anywhere that it might get walked/rolled over. We also said that the charging post should be positioned so that this hazard was minimised.
Tim Crumpton
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