prblem with berlingo ev

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ac288497
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prblem with berlingo ev

Postby ac288497 » Mon Jan 19, 2009 10:06 am

hi there i use an ev car for work it is a berlingo and at present the battery light is coming on at 50%. i'm driving this ev very grentlyto try and get better milage but it is only get worse. i have had people look at it and a cell changed but nothing has improved. please help or give advice on what problem could be.
cheers

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timpootle
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Postby timpootle » Thu Jan 22, 2009 7:50 pm

Tell us more.

What made you change a cell? Are there more duff ones hidden, maybe?

Have you done an equalising charge? *NOTE* Don't do an initialisation charge unless you know what you're doing. The equalisation charge is different.

Are you using a EvLite, or Citroen diagnostic, or what? Have you asked a Citroen dealer? *NOTE* Many people here do not trust the main dealer to know what they're talking about.

So yes, we can help, but we need more info. Where in the country are you?
Tim Crumpton

ac288497
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Postby ac288497 » Fri Jan 23, 2009 7:33 am

cheers for your reply

we out sourced the ev to a person recomended to us. he was the one who changed the cell. and also done an equalising charge and maintance charge but we have sent this ev there 3 or 4 times with know improvement
i have rung the citroen dealer and asked questions but recieved no usefull imformation or help.

i'm not quiet up to speed with doing to much work on this ev but will try any sugggestion recommended if i can. the ev is located in battersea london

not sure if i'm using a evlite or citroen diagnostic how can i determin this

once again thanks for your reply let get this ev up and going :)

Grumpy-b
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Postby Grumpy-b » Sat Jan 24, 2009 5:20 pm

First thing you need to do is check the battery voltages of each pack, the one at the lower front is a paint to get to the fuse / bridges, so check that by subtraction.
You need a DC Voltmeter of at least 200V Mine is a digital one and so it doesnt matter which way round it goes (+ -) If you have a conventional meter be careful and watch what the meter does if it goes negative , swap the leads over quickly.
Take the cover off the control unit, you may need to prise it off as the rubber seals tend to hold it. Measure/ note the voltage across the centre two large cables held in with 13mm nuts. This is the overall system voltage.
Put the cover back.
Pull out the fuse / bridge in front on the drivers side of the Top engine battery. Each of the fuse units (I wont refer to bridges again) is connected to the batteries by the centre set of screws, (ie ventre being between the fuse units.) Measure and note the voltages.
Leave the fuses out for the moment.
Go to the back of the car. The rear battery box has a set of fuses on the back drivers side. Do the same for measuring the voltages here. Put the fuses back.
For the centre pack the fuses are on either side, so two people is much easier than one. Stretch the volt meter cables under the Van. Pull the fuses, the battery side is at the front of these fuse units. Check and note voltages. Put fuses back.
Turn on lighs leave for a few minutes. Go to engine bay. check voltage across 12v Battery. Trn of lights. Put back engine bay Fuse / bridge .
Add up the three Battery pack voltages, and subtract from the overall voltage.
Post all this lot on the Forum.

regards
Grumpy-b

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ChrisB
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Postby ChrisB » Sun Jan 25, 2009 12:29 pm

Nice post Grumps, if I could buy you a beer I would :wink:


ac288497 wrote:not sure if i'm using a evlite or citroen diagnostic how can i determin this


The EVlite is an aftermarket tool that EVan developed http://www.tuer.org.uk/evs2/evlite.html to allow users to maintain their batteries themselves, Citroen of course use their own propriotry gadget diagnostic unit to allow battery a vehicle testing.

Both units plug into the OBDII socket down by the drivers fuse box.

Looking forward to your battery measurements

ChrisB
I reject reality and substitute my own !!!!!!

ac288497
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Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2009 9:58 am

Postby ac288497 » Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:44 am

thanks people will get work work now and start test. will post results once i'm done

ac288497
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Postby ac288497 » Tue Jan 27, 2009 1:18 pm

ok

the voltage off the controller unit was 176.9v

voltage in front engine bay was 26.8v
voltage in back of ev was 40.6v
voltage in middle bay was 70.3v

in total that is 137.7v minus 176.5v = 39.2v

when the lights were turned on for a while the aux battery began to lose power.

the battery power light is still coming on around the 50-60% range.
in my sums when adding up the amount of cells and dividing by the voltage the batteries seem to be right is that correct.

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ChrisB
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Postby ChrisB » Tue Jan 27, 2009 6:55 pm

The 39.2v difference will be the front lower 6 pack that you dont show the measured voltage for :wink:

Looks like the 12v Aux is at the end of its life to start with as that should hold up for reasonable time, you didnt post the onload voltage of the 12v aux battery and a time it had been loaded for.

Also the traction batteries, what state of charge are they in when you took the readings ? it looks like they are readings after a charge but after resting for a while ?

Take it for a spin get the eco recharge light to come on and re-measure the voltages, my guess from the voltages so far are your going to find a couple of duffers in the middle pack, what do others think ?

ChrisB
I reject reality and substitute my own !!!!!!

Grumpy-b
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Postby Grumpy-b » Wed Jan 28, 2009 10:57 am

None of the packs are showing seriously bad voltages. Dropping 12 v could be a problem, but how low did it get? I dont think this is the main problem.
I also suggest you drive it until the light comes on then check the voltages again. Do it as quickly as you can after you stop the vehicle, as the voltages do recover a bit after a short while. Important to get the overall voltage first. After loading, the voltages should be lower and hopefully a more definite guide to the duff cell location should appear. With mine I had to really load the batteries, going up hill, to get the light to come on at 40% and this was only one cell that had low voltage. What you are seeing would suggest more than one cell in the battery packs having a low voltage. Often this isnt obvious until they are loaded. Hence the as discharged as possible voltage check.

Grumpy-b

Grumpy-b
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Postby Grumpy-b » Wed Jan 28, 2009 10:59 am

Just one other thought. What does the discharge to 50/60% mean in miles covered?

Like Chris my thoughts are with the middle pack.So check their voltage after the overall voltage.
Grumpy-b


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