PSA Peugeot 106 Electric

[gwing]

I had not realised the varity of connectors available in waterproof D format, a quick internet search (so there are probably better sources) turned up http://www.in2connect.uk.com/c2/uploads/ip67_20d2.pdf which had all sorts of stuff, including high power connectors which we don't need here of course.

Trouble is doing it like that would be doing it properly, and then I'd want to bring those connections back into the cab and then ....

P.S. thanks for those batteries

[arsharpe]

Just some feedback from my experience.

- I would suggest using relatively thick wire and capable connector (e.g. 5 Amp) for the following reasons:-
......a) The vibration from the vehicle, etc can lead to thin wire fracture, etc
......b) I have had need to charge/discharge individual cells to perform capacity tests in vehicle, 'balance' new batteries manually and to work around faulty cells (i.e. charge them individually)

- I haven't had need to take the entire loom inside the cab (although I have taken a couple of a leads in to see invidual battery performance. Unless you have a compliant wife to re-attach the meter you will have to stop to switch to another battery anyway and you might as well switch the couple of leads in under the bonnet.

[Grumpy-b]

Im happy that for my own use I would only ever use the connections to monitor the battery states, and so the smaller cable and small socket route should be best for me. With regard to high DC voltages, unless you get a short across the whole pack the voltage is only going to be between cells. Using a 24way D socket you can always put the extreme - and + at a physically separate end of the socket. With Shrink sleeving over the small cable / pin it should also lessen the risk.
I set mine out from pin 1 (On mine at the moment Choc block but it doesent matter whatthe connector is) being the positive to the pack positive pin 2 being the positive to the previous + in the pack and so on back to the last pin in the set being the pack - . That way one can have a common sequence and work out which cell in the chain is duff with mininal cabling.

By using a 24 pin d it gives a bit more space between the cables. Also then every pack could have the same connection and it would be worth doing a connection box to simply enable a connection to a volt meter, you could even buy a cheap digital meter and put it in case with a multipole switch.

I did get some covered d sockets from Rapid electronics at a reasonable price. Not sure if they are still available.

If using heavier cabling for charging or if you just use heavier cabling as I have at the moment, I really wouldnt use the d connectors as there isnt much space and they are not designed for any serious current .

All good stuff either as a monitoring or a charging tool. Just be careful when doing it and document / mark up how its wired. We wont always own the vehicles and it could save someone doing themselves a mischief .

Grumpy-b

[Grumpy-b]

Just realised, I meant 25 pin D , Rapid still do the sealed ones, but they seal plug to socket, and so the socket has no cover when unplugged. Its coming back now that was another reason I didnt use the ones I purchased.

They do a number of sealed sockets etc but at quite a price.

SO my current set up of Small plastic boxes (with a Choc block) with a short shrink sleeved flying lead to the battery pack will be my route on the electrique. There isnt much accessible space on the battery packs to enable a decent socket system of any size to be let into the GRP cases.

Grumpy-b

[gwing]

Im happy that for my own use I would only ever use the connections to monitor the battery states, and so the smaller cable and small socket route should be best for me. With regard to high DC voltages, unless you get a short across the whole pack the voltage is only going to be between cells.

Or a short to ground from any of the wires?

Using a 24way D socket you can always put the extreme - and + at a physically separate end of the socket. With Shrink sleeving over the small cable / pin it should also lessen the risk.
I set mine out from pin 1 (On mine at the moment Choc block but it doesent matter whatthe connector is) being the positive to the pack positive pin 2 being the positive to the previous + in the pack and so on back to the last pin in the set being the pack - . That way one can have a common sequence and work out which cell in the chain is duff with mininal cabling.

By using a 24 pin d it gives a bit more space between the cables. Also then every pack could have the same connection and it would be worth doing a connection box to simply enable a connection to a volt meter, you could even buy a cheap digital meter and put it in case with a multipole switch.

I did get some covered d sockets from Rapid electronics at a reasonable price. Not sure if they are still available.

If using heavier cabling for charging or if you just use heavier cabling as I have at the moment, I really wouldnt use the d connectors as there isnt much space and they are not designed for any serious current .

The connector catalog I linked to in the message above lists some D connectors with power contacts, up to 40A capacity if I read it correctly. Using these you don't get as many pins in the connector though.

All good stuff either as a monitoring or a charging tool. Just be careful when doing it and document / mark up how its wired. We wont always own the vehicles and it could save someone doing themselves a mischief .