External Charging Points for electric vehicles

[MB]

I've been doing a bit of research into external power points and charging posts that would be suitable for a work environment.

Charging posts from companies like Elektromotive or Park and Power are extremely good for what they are, but they are prohibitively expensive for individuals, or even companies, to install: we're talking thousands of pounds for the posts themselves, plus thousands more for the installation: they simply do not make financial sense.

The cheapest option is to find an outside wall that backs onto a car park. You can then fit a water-proof 13 amp socket with integral RCD connection to the outside of the wall, wire the cable through the wall and plug it into a 13amp socket on the inside of the wall.

The biggest benefit of this solution is that it does not require the services of an electrician to install, although the company may insist on it being PAT tested before it is used.

This system can typically be installed by a competent DIYer or handiman in around half an hour. The hardware can be purchased for around £20.

This system will work well so long as only one charging bay is required. Under no circumstances should more than one electric vehicle be charged up by this method (unless they are electric bikes, which typically take a 1-3 amp supply for charging) as you will otherwise overload the circuit.

The next step up from this is to install a dedicated power supply. A sixteen amp socket with integral RCD connection can then be fitted to the wall - the parts will cost less than £50 and the installation time depends on how far you are from being able to tap into the mains on the other side of the wall: anything from an hour to half a day.

This is suitable for charging up one or two electric cars or light vans, where the vehicles can be parked next to a wall.

Where a suitable wall is not available, the next cheapest option is to install a charging point similar to those found in caravan parks. This entails installing the charging point and installing armoured cabling into an underground trench back to the nearest supply. The hardware for a two bay charging system will cost around £120, but installation costs will be significantly higher.

If you want a charging bollard similar to the Elektromotive or Park and Power systems, you need to pay a little extra. Service bollards are available from a few manufacturers. They cost around £300 per bollard, but in addition to that you need to fit the electrical hardware - around £50 for the equipment, plus installation.

[Grumpy-b]

I would not advocate the use of a waterproof 13amp socket, as an outside permanent charging facility.
I have one of these, its an MK item, really well made and seals very well.
But 13amp plugs are right on the limit for a serious EV charge, my Berlingo pulls over 3kw when at full charge. The enclosed 13amp plug gets very hot, also since they are often very simple in the way the fuse is held, they do over time start to get hotter owing to the poor fuse connection, the softer shatter proof 13a plugs are the worst for this. I have had one 13amp plug melt the plastic around the pin, needing to subsequently be cut out of the socket. It was a perma plug, and whilst they seem well made the fuse can become loose over time.

Personally I use a set of 16amp wall mounted sockets, that are industrial quality, are sufficiently water resistant and when supplied from an appropriate supply can be fused and earth tripped as required.

I do use 13amp plugs etc when they are not enclosed and can keep cool and are not moved around a lot.

The Electromotive people even suggest you use their charge leads but these are short curly ones that certainly wouldnt work for me.

In short, big charge = big power usage, big power usage = heat.
Small charge = little power usage = less heat.
Heat damages plugs.

Think about what you are using a socket for and how exposed it is.

Grumpy-b

[MB]

It's a fair point - the G-Wiz too can pull over 3000 watts during the first 2½ hours of charging. My personal preference would also be for 16 amp sockets rather than 13.

I have, however, found a 13 amp external socket that I think will do the trick. It's physically larger than most and is fitted to a much larger outer housing - it's about the size of an A4 ream of paper with a large front door that pops open to access the socket.

I've spoken to the makers and they say that it will be up to the job as they use much higher rated cables and connectors on their equipment. It's certainly pricy enough!

I've ordered one in to have a look at it and see if it does what it should do.

[Grumpy-b]

Good idea, I would be interested in the info for the box.

With regard to extension leads, the largest commercially available seem to be 1.5mm, I recently wanted to get some Arctic cable extensions and finally managed to get some 2.5mm Blue Arctic from a company valles QVS they have outlets all over the place. However the cable is far from what I would call an arctic cable and is very akin to a broom stick at cold temps. It was reasonably priced for 2.5mm cable.

So if anyone finds a source of 2.5mm true Arctic cable at a good price, its worth passing the info around. I almost purchased a 100m drum, but Glad I didnt given the stiffness of the cable.

With regard to 16Amp plugs there is also a huge quality difference in whats on offer. Some really are rubbish and the cable seal falls out, pins poor and cable clamps badly designed.
I have been purchasing mine from a company called Rapid electronics, (they are a Mail order company but are close to me) and they are reasonable price and of good quality.

Grumpy-b

[ChrisB]

I'd agree with the points raised here, especially with the Berlingo.

However using a decent MK plug in combination with the MK water proof 13A socket does work, I've been using this combo for the past 3 yrs without an issue. It gets warm but not to a degree I'd worry about it.
You must get the MK plug with the wrap round terminals these are way better in quality than anything else out there.

I have though merrily burnt out several friends sockets and plugs due to cheap installations

ChrisB

[retepsnikrep]

I've found when using 13 amp stuff that a bit of emery paper on the fuse ends and the holder tangs, plus nipping the tangs in a bit to increase contact pressure on the fuse all helps to reduce heat/resistance issues.

[geekygrilli]

The blue 2.5mm Arctic Cable from Screwfix is pretty good.

I use this with a 16 Amp plug into my car. The socket is internal, in my garage and the lead just pokes out under the door - saves having to have another fused outlet outside. Lead length is about 15m, and it doesn't get very warm in the summer, its flexible in the winter too.

The standard 16Amp trailing sockets and plugs from Screwfix have been fine in all weather, and I've had absolutely no concerns. I did silicon up the lead exit points to be sure, though.

I also have a 16Amp - 13Amp adaptor lead which I take with me on my travels, and a small toolset, and loads of fuses, (and a warm coat and a tow rope and some change for bus fare in case I get completely stuck )

[ChrisB]

I recently wanted to get some Arctic cable extensions and finally managed to get some 2.5mm Blue Arctic from a company valles QVS they have outlets all over the place. However the cable is far from what I would call an arctic cable and is very akin to a broom stick at cold temps. It was reasonably priced for 2.5mm cable.

So if anyone finds a source of 2.5mm true Arctic cable at a good price, its worth passing the info around. I almost purchased a 100m drum, but Glad I didnt given the stiffness of the cable.

Dunno if this helps but I today just bought 100m of 2.5mm Blue Artic from HERE for the grand total of £40 inc VAT as they appear to be closing all their depots and they are selling bucket loads of stuff off for next to nothing .

ChrisB